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Peaks of perfection
The Straits Times

Contrary to many an adventurous person's belief, just because something is there, it does not mean you have to take it on - even if that something is as hard to ignore as a mass almost 9,000m high.

Mount Everest in the Great Himalayan Range attracts many travellers to Nepal. But if discretion is the better part of valour, then restraint is the better part of saving yourself to savour the other attractions of the picturesque country sandwiched between China and India.

Here are five things Life! suggests you do in Nepal.

1 Soak in the local vibe at the vibrant Durbar Square in Patan, Kathmandu

Patan, the oldest city in the Kathmandu Valley, is also known as the City Of Fine Arts. Located there is Durbar Square, home to the old royal palace, exquisite artwork, about a dozen temples and architectural gems dating back to the 16th century.

Set aside at least an hour to explore the area.

The buildings here, although dusty and ancient, are mostly well-maintained and have intricately carved Hindu statues. The public toilets are another story - use them only if you really need to.

On weekends, about a hundred young Nepalese adults hang out at this Unesco-designated World Heritage Site as if it were a shopping mall. They appear to be chatting, catching up with friends and generally people-watching, making the vibrant square more than just a musty historical site.

Of course, there are locals who make a living selling souvenirs to tourists from simple stalls made up of a few long tables and chairs. The things they sell include palm-sized bronze or copper figures of Hindu gods with detailed artwork.

As with many tourist areas around the world, remember to bargain here. Persistence and some semblance of haggling skills should get you at least 35 per cent off the first quoted price. The stall vendors usually speak a little English so it is not difficult to strike a deal with them.

To get to Durbar Square as well as move around in Kathmandu, it is advisable to rent a small vehicle with a seasoned driver. Traffic on the dusty roads is chaotic - with many motorbikes, no proper roads and signs, few traffic lights and continuous honking by different vehicles at the same time. Countless small winding lanes could also conspire to make you lose your way.

Admission to Durbar Square costs 200 rupees (S$3.80) a person. Opening hours are not specific, although you should visit during the day from 10am to 5pm because the area is not well lit at night.

2 Get spiritual at Boudhanath

A holy site for Buddhists from the 14th century and also a Unesco-listed heritage site, Boudhanath attracts pilgrims the way Everest draws trekking enthusiasts. It is located about 11km from the centre of Kathmandu.

The mound-like stupa there - one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal with a diameter of 100m and a height of 36m - dominates the scenery not just because of its size but also because of the ritual that can often be seen taking place there.

Many monks and lay devotees walk in a clockwise direction around the stupa, which contains Buddhist relics, chanting as they go along. The belief is that they must complete 13 rounds to reach enlightenment, with each round taking about 20 minutes to complete.

The best time to observe this ritual is at dusk, when hundreds of pilgrims are focused on their own prayers and chanting in soft, murmuring voices. Most of them are deep in thought and do not talk, somehow managing to ignore the commercial activity taking place around them.

Boudhanath is filled with shops selling religious paintings and souvenirs such as magnets, earrings, bracelets and clothes. The souvenirs cost from $1 to $8.

The pilgrims also have to shut out the busloads of tourists drawn there by Boudhanath's colourful flags and magnificient architecture. You can count on those not on a pilgrimage to whip out their cameras.

Admission to Boudhanath costs 100 rupees. It is open daily from 5am to 6pm daily during winter and 4am to 7pm during summer.

3 Watch the sunrise in Nagarkot

Just two hours' drive from Kathmandu, Nagarkot will strike awe in even the most incorrigible urbanite with its superb panoramic view of the Himalayan ranges.

Stay here overnight. Smelling the crisp fresh air in this quiet mountainous area 2,300m above sea level, you immediately forget the hustle and bustle of Singapore. It can get terribly chilly at night, so bring warm clothing.

Go to bed early, then set your alarm to wake up bright and early. At about 6.30am, prepare to drop your jaw at the sight of a sublime sunrise against a gorgeous backdrop of the Himalayan ranges.

From a tiny orange dot hiding shyly behind the tall snow-capped mountains, the sun soon transforms into a huge magnificent circle that chases away the biting cold.

4 Row, row, row a boat in Fewa Lake, Pokhara

A major tourist destination, Pokhara, located at 827m above sea level, is well known for its lakes and mountains.

The magnificent Fewa, or Phewa, Lake, which is 1.5km long, is the second largest lake in Nepal and, like Nagarkot, gives tourists a clear scenic view of the surrounding mountains.

On the lake, a tanned, strong boatman rows the tiny wooden boat slowly, stopping from time to time to let visitors snap photos. It is so peaceful and quiet that one can hear only the sound of the boatsman's oars meeting water.

The hour-long boat ride, which costs about US$5 for a boat that can carry five or six passengers, covers the entire length of the lake. Along the way, observe how the friendly locals live, including the women who do their laundry by the river.

Pokhara is a seven-hour drive or 15-minute flight from Kathmandu.

5 Contribute to the development of Sarangkot

Standing at 1,592m above sea level, Sarangkot is about an hour's drive from the main tourist area of Pokhara.

The drive up the mountain is extremely steep and full of curves, and the road is lined with small, simple huts which villagers live in. Young children run around barefoot, playing with whatever nature provides them from the hills. Animals such as goats and buffaloes belonging to the villagers watch the kids' antics while grazing on the grass.

From the top of Sarangkot, which is located north of Pokhara, tourists can see the Annapurna Range clearly. The range consists of eight mountains, the most famous of which is Macchapucchre, also known as Fishtail Mountain for its steep sharp peak.

For the maintenance of Sarangkot, the Sarangkot Village Development Committee collects 25 rupees from every foreigner who goes up the mountains.

Small shops here sell handicrafts, pashmina scarves and accessories. While the scarves can cost as much as $90, their quality is undeniable.

Also unmistakable is the children's excitement on seeing tourists arrive. They must see foreigners all the time, yet their enthusiasm seems genuine, running up to you to have their photos taken.

Getting there

Jet Airways, SilkAir and Thai Airways fly to Kathmandu.

Getting around

As the public transport in Nepal is not tourist-friendly, it is better to rent a small vehicle with a seasoned driver to get around. Rates start from $60 a vehicle a day for eight hours from 9am to 5pm. For details, visitors can visit www.matnepal.com or e-mail matnepal@ntc.net.np

To get to Pokhara from Kathmandu, take a seven-hour ride in a small rental vehicle for US$236 or take a 15-minute flight via Buddha Air (www.buddhaair.com) for US$92 a person.

Where to stay

At Hyatt Regency Kathmandu (tel: +977-1449-1234), a standard twin room costs about $185 a night.

In Nagarkot, try Niva Niwa Lodge (tel: +977-1668-0097, www.nivaniwa.com), where a standard twin room costs US$50 a night.

In Pokhara, there is the Pokhara Grande (tel: +977-6146-0210). A standard twin room costs $120 a night.

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